These following Car Manufacturers are Required to have this Canceller. We Highly RECOMMEND purchasing an Error Warning Cancellers for all cars. This helps prevent Flickering of your HID bulbs due to low power from your Factory Wiring Harness.Įrror Warning Cancellers prevent those annoying errors signs on your dash saying your headlight is out. The Relay/Anti-Flicker Allows you to run a power source from your car battery directly to your HID Bulbs. Our Relay/Anti-Flicker Harness is an optional upgrade, but we do Recommendpurchasing for all Cars and Trucks. Optional upgrades Include a Relay/Anti-Flicker harness or Error Warning Cancellers Two HID bulbs along with Two DC Ballasts 5 Different color options available 6,000k being the brightest. HID's are 5x brighter and last 3 times longer than your factory Halogen Bulbs. This Kit comes with our Standard Slim 35W DC Ballast. was that a bad idea?Ĭuz the passenger side HID is just completely not as bright as the driver side.we have websense here at work, so i"m just glad that I can hit this site as it is.LOL!so posting to photobucket.no worky.This H11 HID XENON HEADLIGHT CONVERSION KIT has everything you need to make the superior switch from Halogens To HID lighting with the best visibility for those dark nights. Was also wondering if anybody has these and if they project bright coverage on the road. How do you take out the yelllow/black wires if so? I was scared to break them as that was my initial attempt was to wiggle them from the assembly so I could make sure there was good contact, but didn't feel safe about it, thus why I just plugged in the HID red/black into the slot light yellow/black grooves (I just pushed in the HID wires on the opposite side that was open and taped to make sure it stayed). Also I heard good things about the HID Xenon + 09-16 Dodge Ram 1500 / 2500 / 3500 CCFL Halo LED DRL Projector Headlights - Smoked Headlights. QUESTION: I just left the yellow and black wires embedded in the HID and just put in the HID black/red wired into the respective slots and then wrapped some electrical tape to make sure no issues.should I have 'unplugged' the yellow and black wires from the assembly? the second light, the HID went in perfect as I was initially expecting, but held up at the exact spot (when turning to 'lock') and I didn't want to push to lock and break a tab on the 2nd HID. I had to take one out (3 screws for the lil aluminum bracket) because I had to see where the HID wouldn't fit into the light holder.so i wanted/needed to see where the HID was hitting/holding up.I shaved a few hairs here and there to finally get it to go.and it was in my attempt to 'push and lock' that one of the HID's 3 'tab wings' broke off.so no click!. the driver side looks good.broken tab and all and the passenger side looks a little less bright.very weak.but waiting till full darkness to confirm. waiting to get a bit darker.Īfter initial views. The passenger side assembly was almost perfrect,no modding required, slid right in, but woudl also not turn all the way to 'rest' at the 6 oclock position, it's also resting at the 5 oclocka and I didn't want to keep turning to also break that tab like my driver side. Man.either the plastic fitting for the H11's are too big, which I think they are are the headlight assembly itself was/is too narrow.cuz I had to take off the 3 screws that hold the light itself within the assembly so I could try to get it too fit and it wouldn't I had to shave off some of the edging to get to slide in and then once you put it in.it will not turn all the way to completion where yuo have the light (or whatever it is at the botttom of the HID the lil burner?) at the 6'oclock 's more like at 5 oclock.in fact after trying to turn it in.one of the 3 plastic on the HID broke, so it's on by only 2 versus 3.
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